It is always stressful for rabbits to ride in a car at first, but some can quickly get used to it and not mind it at all. You will only know by trying it. There is a bit of concern about your hunting dog being in the house with the bunny. In my opinion, it is a disaster waiting to happen. I used to think that it was OK, as long as you did everything you could to keep them separated. The problem is that sometime during the next ten years, someone is going to make a fatal mistake. A door will be left open accidentally or something like that.
It is bound to happen. I recently had a friend who was fostering a couple of bunnies that he rescued from a petting zoo. He had a couple of Labradors that he kept separate, but a maid forgot and left a door open one day. It took seconds for the disaster to happen. He felt really bad and it changed my opinion that you can prevent this from happening in the long term.
I now think that it is probably a bad idea to have an aggressive dog in the house with a pet rabbit, because inevitably accidents happen. Sorry to say this, because I envision that you will make a great bunny mom. Maybe you can come up with a foolproof way to protect your little bunny girl from a tragic meeting with the doggie or at least rethink your methods because perfection is a necessity. Learning about rabbits is a journey that lasts for many years. Each bunny teaches you something more about their gentle nature and ways.
When you learn what your bunny is saying, you discover how intelligent and interactive they really are. How fun it is to get your first bunny, but it is just the start of your journey. Learning about rabbits takes many years and you will only learn if you do what you are doing, which is actively seek out the information to become smarter about them. Your main problem of your bunny not wanting to interact very much with you could be due to the breed of bunny that you have selected for your first rabbit.
Dwarf rabbits are notoriously hyperactive and known for now wanting to do a lot of cuddling or liking to be held. This is unfortunate, because it appears to me that inexperienced bunny folks seem to most often select these type of bunnies along with Lionheads to be their first rabbit. I tell people that for newbies, these are the hardest type of rabbits to bond and interact with. Of course, I am speaking in generalities and there are always exceptions to this line of thinking. It will require a lot of effort on your part to socialize and train this high energy bunny in to being a good companion.
The first thing I would recommend is finding a healthy treat that your rabbit likes to give to him when it is time for him to do something like go back into his cage. Rabbits learn quickly and you will find him sitting waiting at his cage when the time comes. Yes, bunnies do tell time well and like being on schedules. Also, are you sure that his cage is large enough for him to be happy and comfortable.
Just because he is a small bunny does not mean that he can handle a small cage. Small bunnies who are active, like yours need larger than average cages. You could also do like I do, which is attach an x-pen to the front of the cage so that he has a run area that is part of his abode area. Dwarf rabbits need a lot of run time and get bored very easily. This means they need mental and physical stimulation to be happy, otherwise they get frustrated. Relationships with rabbits are all about trust.
You bunny could be running from you because he knows that when you catch him, it will be time to get locked up again in his cage. My rabbits actually LIKE their cages and do not think of it as a punishment and because of the small treat they always get when put inside, they look forward to going there. If every time you chase and catch him it means going back into a cage, you may find him always trying to avoid you. Rabbits communicate with signals and body postures.
If you remain forward facing, it is an aggressive posture that says I am going to approach you anyway. If you turn and give your bunny the butt, too you might find that he will then rearrange himself to at least turn sideways or face you. Maybe not. I have a complete chapter in my book about communication and language. It really helps to understand what your rabbit is trying to tell you. There is also a chapter on socialization and training. Learning how to play with and interact with your bunny is important to developing the relationship that you desire. You are doing the right thing by getting on the floor with your bunny.
Laying on the floor to read a book or watch TV is perfect, because then your bunny can approach you on his own terms. It can be threatening. Try and get your bunny to approach you. Good luck and please let us know how it goes. I think you are doing the right thing by seeking out the knowledge that will make you a better bunny parent. Once you get hooked on pet bunnies, you will never want to be without one.
Hi Megan Your rabbit is afraid of you and is not socialized to interact with humans. This is very normal and there are many things that you can do to increase her desire to interact. Rabbit-human relationships are about trust. You cannot discipline a rabbit, ever or they will always be afraid of you. Bunnies have super memories and can remember things years after they occur. Their previous encounters with humans can evoke fear or terror if they have had bad experiences.
You job will be to teach your bunny that you are only there to pet her and will never hurt her. With some very shy rabbits this can take years, sometimes. I have a bunny who is just warming up to me after four years. If offering treats, I recommend using healthy ones such as timothy hay cubes or a sprig of parsley or cilantro.
If you make your bunny expect a sweet treat each time you come to interact, she may quickly become overweight. Better to use a healthier alternative. I tell people that you should spend about one hour per day interacting with your rabbit, in order to socialize them. This means that you cannot come to visit your bunny for five minutes each day and expect her to be excited about you wanting to pet her. Regularly spending an hour each day, preferably at the same time will develop a relationship.
Rabbits are born wanting to socialize and have buddies, because they normally live in large groups of over in the wild. They can easily be ruined or be put off human contact. It can sometimes be difficult for them to overcome their past. Who knows what horrors our buns go through before we take them in. When you interact with your bunny, it is best to be on their level. Get into her pen each day and play with or pet her for an hour. This is how we get our bunnies to look forward to our time together. There is a complete chapter in my book about Socialization and Training Bunnies.
This is where the true enjoyment of having a pet rabbits is realized. The reason we have pets is to bond with them. Once you learn what your bunny is trying to tell you, then communication can begin. When you are not intently paying attention to her, you are less of a threat. When you come into her area and try and touch her, even after she tells you that she does not want you to touch her is very threatening and aggressive in bunny language.
Just be in her area and let her come up and approach you. This may take five minutes or a half hour. It may take a couple weeks, depending on how nervous she is about being near her. Teach her that every time you are near, that you are not snatching her up or putting her into a cage. Bunnies associate their humans with regular things, like being snatched up from their pen to go back into a cage. I just got my first rabbit, a mini lop, this past weekend! She is between months old and currently unspayed, but that will be changing within the next few weeks. Is it a mistake to wait for a bit of time to spay her?
My thought process was spaying is a very stressful event, and I didnt want her to associate all these new stresses with me. We are currently litterbox training and it seems to be moving in a positive direction. She primarily urinating in her litter box she has accidents every now and then outside her cage, but she usually hops back in to use the litter box , but we are having trouble getting her to primarily poop in her box.
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Any tips? She is out for a good portion of the evening. She will binky around in the morning, but in the afternoon she is more aloof and is investigating the room. In a few months I will be moving, so I am looking forward to getting her a play pen. I feed her timothy pellets primarily since she is young, but also provide lots of timothy hay and chewing toys in her cage.
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We were doing good with fresh veggies cilantro and a few carrots , but I tried kale and she snubbed it, and now she is snubbing all veggies…. I would not wait to spay her. They get over being spayed very quickly. In a week or so after the surgery, she will already be getting over it. It takes about four to six weeks for the surgery to take effect. Are you putting her hay into her litter box?
This is an important and easy part of litter box training. Rabbits like to graze while they are peeing and pooping and so by putting their main food into their box, they will spend a lot of time in there.
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Also, rabbits are very clean animals. You can see this by how often they bath themselves each day. It usually is helpful to just put a box where they go. They would prefer to use the box, anyway. Make sure the sides of the box are not too low or too high. We use a regular size cat box, but some folks find that they need to use a high sided box if their buns tend to over shoot the sides a lot.
Smaller buns like yours may not have that problems as much. I have a whole chapter in my book about litter box training and step by step pictures on how to set up the box with hay inside. I also sell the convenient little plastic grates that you can use in the box to save on your Carefresh usage. It can cause sudden liver failure in rabbits. Some rabbits are more active in the morning and some like to be more active in the evening. During the middle of the day is usually nap time for most bunnies. It sounds like your bunny is getting enough time out of her cage.
I would recommend spending about an hour a day up close with her to socialize her into being more interactive with you. I get on the floor and read or watch TV and my buns will come up and want to be near me. I will pet them or offer to play a bit with them. This is how you interact with bunnies, best. After a while, you can teach them to accept being held or sitting on your lap, too. You have to build up their trust. You can start weaning your bunny off pellets at six months old. She will be 80 percent of her full adult size by then. An adult bunny does not need pellets and so you can start reducing them, then.
Pellets replace a lot of hay and vegetables. Mine only get a tablespoon per day at the most. I think many vets tell people to feed too many pellets. They are dense and highly caloric. They do not have the fiber that rabbits need to be healthy. Many people do not give adult rabbits pellets at all after one year old. They notice small changes and can be very particular about their hay and veggies, both.
I hope you get a copy of my book very soon. It is the most common mistake that people make. If you do not proactively seek to learn about bunnies, you will not learn it by trial and error. I have two male rabbits, but I look after 4, 1 male and the other female. They live outside in the playhouse, that is bunnyproofed, but come inside every other day for about 5 hours.
One of my rabbits is very dominant and absolutely adores me. I was wondering if Thor wiping his scent on me could have anything to do with Loki not wanting to come near our cuddling? But, and I know this is crazy, but there were two black bunnies… and I originally wanted the other one!
Anyway, can you help with my Thor behaviour issues and Loki autism? Also, when I move out in a few years I want them to be inside all the time.. And also from being separated from Rogue and Storm? The other two.
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The behaviors that you describe Thor doing sounds like he has not been neutered. When male rabbits are not fixed, they do a lot of marking and can be extremely dominant to females. I do not know what area that you live, but be certain to use a rabbit specialist vet when getting the boys neutered.
Dog and cat vets are not good to use on rabbit surgeries. They are so different and the vet needs special experience that dog and cat vets do not have. Not all rabbits like being picked up and held. Actually, most rabbits do not like it until you socialize them to it. Often, they never learn to love it, but can be taught to tolerate it. It depends on the personality of the rabbit.
It sounds to me like you got very lucky with Thor being a cuddly loving bunny, because Loki has the personality that is more common with rabbits. Thor sounds like the rare kissey bunny. It is very bad for rabbits to live outside. They are prey animals, not predators like dogs and cats. They have no defenses against attack by the many predators that would like to kill and eat them.
Hawks and owls can fly over and snatch a bunny up to 8 lbs. Coyotes and wolves love to eat rabbits and the worst are raccoons who actually can open cages and go inside to get a bunny. I have a rabbit who has one eye because the other was damaged in a raccoon attack. Even dogs and cats will often kill bunnies. The reason that we advocate rabbits living indoors, like dogs and cats is that they need our protection. Indoor rabbits on average live more than twice as long as outdoor bunnies.
The average rabbit who is housed outside lives about five or so years. Indoor rabbits can live between ten and fifteen years. That is two or three times as long. When we love our bunnies, we try and keep them inside to protect them from predators and the elements. In the summer, the heat can certainly kill bunnies. Temperatures over 80 degrees can be fatal for a rabbit. It gets that hot almost anywhere during the summertime and many thousands of rabbits die each summer from the heat outdoors. There is a lot of information available on the internet about how to house your rabbit indoors.
Rabbits live in these enclosures indoors and then get about two or three hours a day of run or play time out of the pen. It is a sign of extreme happiness. It is a good thing to see them do that because it means that they are happy. You want to see your rabbit do lots of binkies, like all happy rabbits do. As they get older, some rabbits will not do them as often but I have seen twelve year old rabbits doing them.
They are universal and all rabbits do them. Hope this info helps.
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They have been neutered, a while ago, and the girl was spayed.. I do not remember if the two are bonded. If they are not bonded, then it would explain it. When other rabbits are around that are not bonded, then buns will try and mark everything they can to claim it as theirs. This is done by rubbing their chins, chewing on and even peeing and pooping on stuff. Loki is just not fond of being picked up. I would just continue to work with him to let him know that nothing bad will ever happen to him when you do.
Hold him tightly and close so that he does not feel like he is going to fall.
That is why he is calmer when he is wrapped, because it provides a sense of security. Hello, We just purchased a bunny from the pets store. I have read all of your help and it has been all very helpful! I am still interested on how to litter box train her though. She has been out twice a day for almost 2 hours since we brought her home. I know this is all going ot take time and patience but if you have any suggestions I would greatly appreciate it! We have been getting down on the floor with her and letting her know we are there using slow calm voices and movements but getting her back in her cage is dedinitly a challenge I do not look forward to.
Hi Crystal I am glad you wrote here because it is very important that you start your journey of learning about pet rabbits right away. I am sure that you are probably making lots of serious mistakes right now when it comes to feeding, bunny-proofing and knowing when to take your rabbit to the vet and the right KIND of vet. These are all critical issues that you must know and understand in order to care for this lovely bunny. The first thing you are going to need to do is learn what to feed this bunny and it is not pellets.
Pellets were designed to fatten up bunnies so you can quickly eat them. They are fine for a baby bunny because they need the extra calories, protein and carbs to grow, but as soon as he or she matures the pellets can quickly become a problem. I also recommend that you locate and visit a rabbit vet specialist ASAP. Rabbits do not even make good pets until they are fixed. This is how you litter box train a rabbit.
The reason your rabbit is fighting going back into his cage is because it is too small. Most rabbit cages sold at pet stores are way too small for a pet rabbit. They are really made for Guinea Pigs and hamsters not bunnies. A suitable rabbit cage needs to be no less than two feet by four feet. That is the minimum. Mine are twice that size. Large cages are expensive and most look like they belong in the back yard. The only company making appropriate indoor cages is leithpetwerks.
X-pen environments are the more cost effective way to provide a safe home for a rabbit, but they still need to be let out of the x-pen two or three hours a day for exercise and playtime. I give my bunnies a very small bunny treat sprig of cilantro or parsley when I want them to go into their cages and they never argue. As a matter of fact, when it is time for bed, they are waiting there fifteen minutes early waiting for their treat. This is how you train you bunny.
Just do not use sugary treats such as yogurt drops, fruit or human food. A romaine lettuce leaf or sprig of parsley is a huge treat for a rabbit. Hope you decide to start your educational journey right away and begin learning what you need to know to successfully have a pet rabbit. I have a similar problem with my bunny, who fights going back to his cage. He allows me to handle him and to cuddle him but when I let him out to run free in my apartment and want to put him back, he runs away and struggles when i actually do get to him. I really hate it when he struggles, because I feel like his enemy.
But the truth is, I am not able to let him out on a daily basis for 4 hours like you recommended. He is only weeks old. I live in an apartment and work full-time. Still, I try to let him out at least 30 mins-1 hour, about twice a day, whenever I am home. With my limitations, would you be able to advise on what would help him stop fighting me and being put back in the cage? I do not give him treats as he is still a baby. He is being fed on pellets and an unlimited amount of hay.
You did not mention how big that his cage was. Most store bought rabbit cages are way too small for a bunny. I am sure you have seen how your bunny runs and plays when you let him out. Rabbits have a lot of energy and get bored very easily. They need mental stimulation for all those hours that they are locked up and they need to be able to stretch their legs and move about during the day. A cage needs to be long enough that he can hop twice without reaching the end and wide enough that he can lay out fully stretched.
I have found that the minimum size needs to be two feet by four feet. That is actually the minimum and smaller and younger rabbits usually need more. Yes, I said smaller rabbits because smaller bunnies are more active and higher energy critters. Most people do not realize that dwarf and mini breeds of bunnies are the most active of all of them.
My bunnies live in a two story cage that is two feet by four feet. It holds their litter box and still has plenty of room for lounging around. Dog exercise pens called x-pens are better than cages since most come in a three foot by six foot size. This is the perfect amount of space for a long day being locked up. Maybe an x-pen attached to the front of a cage with some clips might be the answer. I have been using one of these for two of my rabbits for years and they love this arrangement. As I mentioned, all of my cages came from leithpetwerks. To be honest, two hours a day is the minimum that your bunny needs to be out to run.
Three or four would be better, but he needs the exercise especially if they are young and growing. I am not sure why you are not allowing your rabbit any treats. First off, treats can be a sprig of parsley or cilantro. Treats should not be fruit or sweets for a rabbit. There are a few bunny crackers or cookies that are not too unhealthy.
Find ones with very little sugar and do not contain a lot of carbs with no seeds or nuts in them. American Pet Diner does a nice bunny cracker that I break in half for the small bunnies. Rabbits are all about treats. If you want your bunny to be enticed to go into his house, a treat is how I would do it. I have a treat container and if I shake it, all my rabbits come running. Just be sure that you have lots of chewing toys in the cage and things to do for your bunny. They get bored and it becomes maddening for them to spend too much time with nothing to do, nothing to chew on, and not being able to run and hop.
Phone books are fun toys. Toilet paper tubes provide a lot of fun. Glad you wrote and hope this helps a bit. Thanks for responding. Your advice is lovely, and I would like to follow it to a T. Unfortunately I face limitations, which I am still working on, including convincing my parents to allow a big rabbit cage or xpen in the hall of our apartment. My apartment has three rooms, a kitchen, and a hall. The bunny has scratched some furniture when I let him play freely. As you might imagine my parents are not thrilled.
Yesterday I created a temporary play pen with cardboard boxes and let him run around. I also bonded with him. I offered him a dried apple treat but he ignored that. He prefers his pellets, which are from the brand Genesis. Are you feeding him hay? Your bunny is young and feeding him pellets is fine for now, but in a few weeks, he is going to be growing up and not need them so much.
If you get him where he ONLY eats pellets, then when it is time for him to eat hay and not so many pellets, he will not want to eat. The reason this is important is that pellet fed rabbits only live four to six years, but rabbits who eat grass hay will live ten to fifteen years. The reason for this is that rabbits swallow a lot of their fur when they take their baths. Unlike a cat, they cannot throw up fur balls so the fur must go through their system. In order for the fur to move through and not become a blockage, they MUST be eating lots and lots of fresh hay every day.
I simplified this story, but in essence this is what happens, so you are going to need to consider how to purchase, store and feed your bunny his hay. Once he is neutered by a rabbit vet, he will go in one spot and so he can be litter box trained. The easiest way to give your rabbit lots of hay each day is to put it into his litter box. You will need to clean it every day for him so that he has fresh food and box. This is a very important part of having a pet rabbit. I recommend not giving your bunny any kind of dried fruit. It is not good for them because rabbits were not meant to eat anything with sugar or fats in it like nuts, seeds, dairy or sweets of any kind.
I think you will be showing your rabbit a lot of love if you go online and study about rabbits so that you do not accidentally hurt him. Then When I do get her out she wants right back in! When I try to feed her she will eat out of mu hand but is scared and runs away all the time! Anyone have any advice to give me?
Hi Shauna This rabbit has been hurt by humans. They have excellent memories and do not forget easily. Someone must have mishandled or hurt her in her past and she is fearful of people. A relationship between a human and a rabbit is all about trust. It is not natural for a rabbit a prey animal to be friends with a predator a human , so you must teach her that you will never hurt her in any way. Once she learns to trust you, then she will be more willing to be with you without being so afraid.
It can take a long time and it is a commitment. I recommend that you spend at least one hour each and every day interacting with your rabbit. This is on top of the two or three hours each day that they must be allowed outside of their cage to run and play. So many people lock their rabbits into a too small cage and forget that bunnies were born to run. The minimum size cage for most rabbits is at least eight square feet and larger is even better. So is her cage is too small? Almost all of the cages I have seen sold in pet stores are WAY too small for a pet rabbit.
One hour a day should be spent in close contact with your rabbit, otherwise how is she going to learn to be your friend? At first, you need to spend most of that time down on the floor with your bunny. Rabbits were not born liking to be picked up or held. In the wild when they leave the ground, they are about to die. It takes a lot of socializing to teach them to accept being picked up and held, but it can be done. I have a girl whom it took five years of doing this every day before she got past her extreme fear of me picking her up or approaching her, but I never gave up.
She will still occasionally run from me and sometimes panics when I pick her up, but this is a huge improvement from where she was before.
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It takes time for some rabbits, so just work with her gently and she will come around. I got my bunny about 3 years ago, when I first got him I was in highschool and my mom allowed him to live inside. I feel horrible about it. Would he get sad if I gave him away? Would he miss me? Thank you for writing and thinking about this little bunny. The first thing that you need to accept is that there is a huge difference in the way we care for and raise farm rabbits and pet rabbits.
They are not the same. Unfortunately, the one who needs this lesson is not you, but your mom. If this is a pet rabbit. If you care at all about his health and well-being, then he needs to live indoors protected from the elements and predators. Predators do not actually have to come in contact with a rabbit to kill him. They die of heart attacks all the time from just being threatened in their cage by predators. I see you already have experienced the fact that once put outdoors, you no longer have the daily intimate contact that makes a rabbit a good pet.
I am not sure why your mom has decided that a bunny who was once indoors, needs to be outdoors. If it was because he was chewing stuff or peeing on the floor, then you need to bunny-proof his living area and get him spayed or neutered so that he can be litter box trained like all pet rabbits should be. It is a lot easier than most people think. You have to decide whether you are truly going to make him the pet that he deserves to be or otherwise try and find someone else who will. If he is three years old and not spayed or neutered, you need to hurry up because it is almost too late.
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